民间古法榨油技艺有“活化石”之称
An Ancient Folk Oil Expression Technique: The Living Fossil of Oil Expression
古法榨油的八艺流程Eight procedures of ancient oil expression
距今400年左右历史的“鄂西北油榨之王”The king of the oil press in northwest Hubei with a history of around 400 years
伴着铿锵的号子声,榨油师傅合力推动木杆撞向木榨的楔子(通讯员供图)Following the rhythm of a sonorous work chant, the oil expression masters jointly push the heavy wooden pole and bang against the wooden wedge to extract oil(Photo provided by the correspondent)
楚天都市报极目新闻记者 关前裕
通讯员 郭军
Jimu News reporter: Guan Qianyu
Correspondent: Guo Jun
翻译:王红,樊雨泽,谢雅和 (湖北大学)
Translated by Wang Hong, Fan Yuze, Xie Yahe (Hubei University)
我国植物油的古法榨油历史悠久,工艺源远流长,民间古法榨油技艺有“活化石”之称。早在1500年前的北魏时期,贾思勰在《齐民要术》中就记载了压榨取油的方法:“收子压取油,可以煮饼。一倾收二百石,输于压油家”。这里的“压取油”就是榨得的油,“压油家”就是榨油的作坊。
The ancient folk technique of vegetable oil expression, bearing long history and profound craftsmanship, is known as “the living fossil” in China. As early as 1500 years ago during the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534), Jia Sixie (a famous agriculturist) recorded the method of extracting oil in his Qi Min Yao Shu(a comprehensive agricultural work): “The seeds of certain crops can be used for oil expression. A field of 8.24 acres can yield 50 kg of seeds which then are transported to the workshop.”
传统的物理压榨榨油方式无须经过精炼,不含任何添加剂,无化学残留,营养元素和特殊风味都保留了下来,对人体的健康益处良多,亦历经了千年人类食用的安全检验。
Oil extracted through traditional technique does not need to be refined, and can retain nutrients and its distinctive flavors while remaining free from additives and chemical residues. This makes it beneficial for good health. Its safety is tested and guaranteed by people who have consumed it in the past 1000 years.
在秦巴山区腹地的竹溪县水坪镇桃花岛夯土小镇,桃花灼灼的芬菲谷入口,溪水潺潺的向家汇小溪边,就有一处古朴大气的四合院建筑:油磨坊博物馆。这里安放着一台明末清初时期的油榨,距今有400年左右的历史,被称为“鄂西北油榨之王”,以体验式传统古法榨油技艺,向世人诉说古法榨油悠长的历史文化。
In Hangtu Town (also known as Taohua Island), Shuiping Town, Zhuxi County, in the heart of the Qinba Mountain Area, there is a quaint and grand courtyard house ---the Oil Mill Museum. It is located at the entrance of Fenfei Valley with blooming peach blossoms, and by the side of the babbling Xiangjiahui brook. Inside sits an oil press from the late Ming and early Qing dynasty with a history of about 400 years. Known as the king of oil expression in northwest Hubei, this ancient oil press tells people of the time-honored oil extraction technique by providing personal experience.
传承了400年的“镇馆之宝”
Treasures of the Museum that has been Inherited for 400 Years
3月26日,周日,春光明媚,竹溪县油磨坊博物馆内浓香四溢,热闹非凡。
Sunday March 26thwas a fresh and brilliant spring day. A strong fragrance perfused in the Oil Mill Museum in Zhuxi County in which visitors were bustling with excitement.
炒制、打饼、上饼、撞榨,榨油…颇具特色的传统榨油工艺引得游客纷纷围观,一边说着“好香”,一边品尝选购芝麻油。
The visitors were drawn in by the distinctive oil expression procedures, such as stir frying, grinding, placing, squeezing, extracting and so on. Those present could not help but praise the aroma of the sesame oil as they tasted and bought some for themselves.
走进馆内,可以看见各种古法榨油方式和加工粮食的器具。在非遗展示厅的正中央,一个玻璃展柜里面陈列着的“庞然大物”很是壮观。展馆讲解员龚孝俊说,这可是油磨坊的“镇馆之宝”,是距今已有400年的明末清初时期的油榨,体量非常硕大,是十堰市周边地区保存最完整、年代最为久远的油榨,被称为“鄂西北油榨之王”。
Upon entering the museum, visitors see a variety of ancient oil extraction tools and implements for processing grain. At the heart of the Intangible Cultural Heritage Exhibition Hall, a giant collector placed in a glass showcase gives visitors a magnificent sight. The guide Gong Xiaojun introduced that this is the treasure of the Oil Mill Museum. With a massive volume and long history of 400 years from the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, it is the most intact and oldest oil press in Shiyan City and its surrounding regions, so it is known as the king of oil press in northwest Hubei.
细看“油榨之王”,通体油光发亮,百年油渍包浆已看不清木材的纹理。龚孝俊介绍,这是竹溪“青山古玩行”老板、具有古玩鉴定师资质的范青山,2010年从与竹溪交界的陕西省安康市一老油坊花24万元购来的。
A close look at this oil press reveals that its entire body is shiny with oil, and the texture of the wood has become indistinct due to the oil stains accumulating for hundreds of years. Gong introduced that Fan Qingshan, the owner of the “Qingshan Antique Shop” in Zhuxi County, qualified as an antique appraiser, purchased the oil press for 240 thousand yuan in 2010 from an old oil shop in Ankang City in Shaanxi Province that borders Zhuxi County.
该油榨长4.5米、宽1.8米,高2.3米。据范青山介绍,专家从榫卯结构工艺和木材风化程度等方面判定,此油榨是明末清初时期的物件,距今约400年。
The oil press has a length of 4.5 meters, a width of 1.8 meters and a height of 2.3 meters. According to Fan's introduction, judging from its tenon, mortise structure, erosion and other factors, experts determined that its emergence can date back to the late Ming and the early Qing Dynasties, about 400 years ago.
2018年,竹溪县以民间文化为依托,结合农村环境综合整治、人居环境改善和美丽乡村建设,在向家汇村建设桃花岛夯土小镇,均等规划油磨坊博物馆、红色记忆博物馆、武陵城堡三大特色景点。
In 2018, relying on folk culture, Zhuxi County combined strategies of comprehensive improvement of the rural environment, improvement of the living environment and construction of beautiful countryside to build Hangtu Town in Xiangjiahui Village, and equally planned three featured scenic spots: Oil Mill Museum, Red Memory Museum and Wuling Castle.
夯土小镇总体规划面积12.3平方公里,围绕“中国夯土居,生态桃花养”功能定位,融农耕文化、秦巴民俗、旅游服务、娱乐购物于一体。在整体设计上,结合巴山生态特质、夯土文化特质,通过科学规划,挖掘产业特色、人文内涵和生态禀赋,强调“产业、文化、旅游、社区”功能叠加,促进生产、生活、生态相融。
With the overall planning area of 12.3 square kilometers, Hangtu Town, is centered on the functional orientation of “Chinese Rammed Earth Dwelling, Taohua Ecological and Health Preservation Area”. It integrates farming culture, folk customs in the Qinling Mountains and Ta-pa Mountains, tourism services, entertainment and shopping facilities. Its overall design combined the ecological features of Bashan Mountain and the cultural features of rammed earth, and emphasized the consolidation of functions of “industry, culture, tourism and community” to promote the integration of production, life and ecology through scientific planning, and discovering industrial characteristics, humanistic connotation and ecological endowment.
夯土小镇以展现竹溪深厚历史文化、丰富乡土文化、多彩民俗文化为主题,以夯土民居、田园、花海、红色记忆博物馆、油磨坊博物馆为核心产品体系,构建集休闲、度假、观光、餐饮、娱乐于一体的原生态多功能旅游景区。
With the theme of showing the profound history and culture of Zhuxi and enriching local culture and colorful folk culture, Hangtu Town takes rammed earth dwellings, fields, Sea of Flowers, Red Memory Museum and Oil Mill Museum as the core product system to build an ecological and multifunctional tourist attraction providing leisure places, vacation destinations, sightseeing sites, catering and entertainment facilities.
2020年油磨坊建成,对外开放。除非遗体验馆门票收费20元外,其余展览、展厅都免费开放。
In 2020, the Oil Mill Museum was completed and opened to the public. Except for the admission for the intangible cultural heritage experience hall which requires a 20 yuan admission fee, all other exhibitions and exhibition halls are free.
“周末和节假日前来参观的人比较多。”龚孝俊说。
“There are more people visiting on weekends and holidays.” Gong Xiaojun said.
油香与文化味浓稠融合
A Profound Integration of Oil Fragrance and Cultural Flavor
占地面积1400平方米的油磨坊博物馆,和红色记忆博物馆、武陵城堡一起成为夯土小镇上的三大地标性的建筑,形成一线串三珠的格局。
Covering an area of 1,400 square meters, the Oil Mill Museum, together with the Red Memory Museum and Wuling Castle, have become the three major landmarks in the Hangtu Town, forming a pattern of one line with three spots.
油磨坊博物馆分为历史文化厅、观赏体验厅、成果分享厅、自由活动区,是集文化、科普、体验于一体的主题展馆,也是竹溪首家油磨主题科普馆。
Oil Mill Museum includes history and culture hall, viewing and experience hall, achievement sharing hall and free zone. It is a theme museum integrating culture, popular science and experiential activities, and is also the first science museum with the theme of an oil mill in Zhuxi.
油磨坊大门两侧有一副鎏金的对联,是由清代诗人陶澍为油磨坊所题的一首诗,上联是:榨响如雷惊动满天星斗;下联是:油光似月照亮万里乾坤。这副对联将古法榨油的两大工艺特点(榨响如雷、油光似月)形象地展示了出来。
On both sides of the gate of the museum are gilded couplets, with a poem about the oil mill written by Tao Shu, a poet in the Qing Dynasty, which reads “The sound of oil pressing is like thunder that shocks the stars in the sky” as the upper scroll, and “The lustre of the oil is like the moonlight that illuminates the whole world” as the lower scroll. The couplets demonstrate two major technological characteristics (the pressing sounds like thunder, the lustre of the oil is like moonlight) in the ancient oil pressing process.
进入大厅以后,首先映入眼帘的当属大厅正中间的泥塑,这尊泥塑的主人公叫力牧。
After entering the lobby of the museum, the first thing visitors see is the clay sculpture in the middle of the lobby, whose character is a reference to Li Mu.
相传我们的祖先黄帝曾经得到过一本叫《河图》的书,他想在晚上阅读这本书,但条件有限,没有用来照明的工具,所以他就命令其中的一个大臣力牧,从植物当中提炼植物油,以此作燃料,用于他晚上照明看书,因为是第一个发现并使用植物油的人,所以我们现在尊力牧为油的始祖,于是将始祖力牧的雕像放在油磨坊博物馆大厅正中的位置供游客们瞻仰。
It is said that our ancestor Yellow Emperor once received a book called “River Map”. He wanted to read it at night, but had no tool for lighting, so he ordered one of the ministers, Li Mu, to extract vegetable oil from plants as fuel for lighting to read at night. As the first person to discover and use vegetable oil, Li Mu was revered as the originator of oil, and a statue of Li Mu was placed in the center of the lobby of the Oil Mill Museum for visitors to admire.
在历史文化厅,主要是通过文字、泥塑和实物来展示秦巴山区悠久的油磨历史文化。
In the History and Culture Hall, the long history and extensive culture of the oil mill in the QinBa Mountain Area are displayed mainly through words, clay sculptures and material objects.
前面展柜里面有一组非常生动、逼真的泥塑,是由我国非物质文化遗产传承人——中国泥塑大师王文喻老师捏造的古法榨油的八大工艺流程,因为每一个工序、每个步骤都承载了太多先人们的记忆,因此它有一个主题:不忘初心,牢记乡愁。
In the front showcase stands a set of vivid and lifelike clay sculptures which were created by theChineseclaysculpturemasterWangWenyu (Chinese intangible culturalheritageinheritor). This set of clay sculptures depicts the eight traditional processes of distilled vegetable oil. Its theme is keeping the original intention and homesickness in mind.
一个个竹编油篓,主要是通过竹片、纺布、粘土编织,然后刷上一层桐油制作而成,竹片主要编织成一个大的框架,纺布和粘土密封性非常好,然后再刷上桐油就可以用来装油了,可见当时古人的智慧。
Bamboo-woven and oil-painted baskets are primarily made by weaving bamboo tablet, spinning cloth and clay, then coating them with tung oil. With a large frame woven with bamboo tablet, and good sealing of spinning cloth and clay, they can be used to hold vegetable oil after being treated with tung oil. These processes indicate the wisdom of ancient people.
展厅后面墙上写有中国油炸简史。挂有一幅卖油翁的画,这幅画是中国非物质文化遗产传承人徐光建大师的作品,这个卖油翁的故事,已经纳入了中小学生语文教材。
On the wall behind the exhibition hall is the brief written history of Chinese frying. There is also a painting of an oil seller, which is an artwork painted by Master Xu Guangjian (the Chinese intangible cultural heritage inheritor). The story of this oil seller has been included in Chinese textbooks for primary and middle school students.
老农成古法榨油“表演艺人”
Farmers Become “Performers” of Oil Expression in Ancient Ways
在油磨坊博物馆里,身着蓝布衫、腰系红绸带的汉子们,伴着“哟哈嗨呀”的铿锵号子声,合力推动一根粗壮的木杆,“哐当”一声撞向木榨的楔子…颇具特色的传统榨油工艺引得游客驻足围观。
In the Oil Mill Museum, men in blue shirts and red ribbons around their waists pushed a thick wooden pole and banged against the wedge of pressing wood accompanied by the resounding work slogans. This unique traditional oil expression process drew visitors to stop and watch.
“没想到当了一辈子农民,老了在家门口的景区还能找到工作,拿上稳定工资,过上舒坦日子。”榨油工艺演示间隙,66岁的水坪镇向家汇村村民李玉新是一名老油匠,在他年轻的时候经常用木榨打油,后来随着机械化榨油技艺的普及,他的榨油手艺就无用武之地了。“自桃花岛景区开放之日起,我就来这里上班。既活络了筋骨,每月还能挣两三千元工资。”他高兴地说。
“After being a farmer for almost all my life, I never expected to find another job in my later years at a scenic spot right at my doorstep, and earn a stable salary to live a comfortable life,” Li Yuxin, a 66-year-old villager from Xiangjiahui Village in Shuiping Town, said during the oil extraction performance. When he was young, he often extracted oil with a pressing wood. Later, with the popularization of the mechanized oil extraction techniques, his skills became obsolete. “Since the opening of the Taohua Island Scenic Area, I have been working here, which not only keeps me more active, but also means two or three thousand yuan in salary per month,” he said happily.
古法榨油工艺从油菜籽选料、去壳 、炒籽、磨碾、蒸胚、结包饼、踩饼、上榨、撞榨、接油、沉淀、缸醒等需经历十几道工序,蕴含和体现着中国劳动人民的智慧与文化。
The traditional processes of distilled vegetable oil involve more than ten steps, including selecting rape seeds, shelling, frying, milling, steaming, wrapping into round shapes, treading, fixing and hitting the pressing wood, collecting the oil, settling, stirring the tank, etc. These processes embody and reflect the wisdom and culture of Chinese laborers.
古法榨出的油色泽鲜亮、香味浓郁,口感绵香四溢。现在不少人不放心或不愿吃现代工业食用油,仍喜欢古法压榨的油,这也是古法榨油能保存至今的原因之一。
The oil extracted by traditional methods is bright in color, aromatic in flavor, and smooth and fragrant in taste. Today, many are unwilling to consume modern industrial edible oil, but still prefer oil extracted by traditional methods. This is one of the reasons why oil extracted by traditional methods has been preserved to this day.
看这间不大的榨油坊,古老的设备,憨厚朴实的工人,体现了他们的生活精神,他们延续的是世代相传的手艺,更是流淌在血脉骨子里的勤劳和坚守。
Looking at this small oil extraction workshop, the ancient equipment and honest workers, all these reflect their spirit in life. The legacy they have continued is a craft that has been passed down from generation to generation, but even more, it is the diligence and perseverance embodied in their blood and bones.
古法榨油堪称民间手工榨油技艺的“活化石”,具有独特的历史价值、文化价值和科普教育价值。
The oil extracted by traditional methods can be regarded as the “living fossil” of folk handmade oil expression techniques, with unique historical, cultural, and scientific education value.
岁月在流淌,时代在发展,据油坊的匠人介绍,由于老办法榨油古老原始,而且是个繁重的体力活,因此村里的年轻人宁愿出门打工也不愿意干,只有他们这群花甲老人还在坚持。
According to the craftsmen in the oil expression workshop, as time passes, young people in the village would rather leave home to work in other places than do this kind of work because it is primitive and arduous. Thus, only this group of elderly people are still sticking to it.