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Amazing China Colorful Jingchu:A Natural Museum of Rocks in the Dabie Mountains

极目新闻 2022-11-11 17:54:28 阅读量:

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大别山区天降一座奇石馆 

A Natural Museum of Rocks in the Dabie Mountains 


极目新闻记者 董淑健

通讯员 刘世民 陈钦

翻译 郭纹妮 韩晓蕾 潘云昊 (湖北大学)

JIMU News Reporter: Dong Shujian

Correspondents: Liu Shimin, Chen Qin

Translators: Guo Wenni, Han Xiaolei, Pan Yunhao (Hubei University) 

猪头石Zhutoushi (the pig-head shaped rock)

黄冈罗田县与浠水县交界处有座海拔500多米的高峰山,扼守长江出入大别山的要冲,连接浠水、罗田、英山、蕲春诸县,位置显要,自古兵家必争之地。山顶有上万块大小不一、形态各异的石头,堪称大别山地质公园之奇石馆,其中有块数十吨重的巨石状如猪头,当地人便用“猪头石”当做高峰山的别称,如今的猪头石已成网红打卡地。

Sitting at an altitude of over 500 meters on the border of Luotian County and Xishui County, Gaofeng Mountain is where the Yangtze River flows into the Dabie Mountains. The mountain connects the neighboring counties including Xishui, Luotian, Yingshan, and Qichun. It has frequently been fought for due to its prominent location. Rocks of different sizes and shapes at the top of the mountain are often referred to as a natural museum of rocks in Dabie Mountains. As some of the rocks weigh tens of tons and resemble the shape of a pig's head, Gaofeng Mountain is also called the The pig-head shaped rock, which today has become a popular tourist attraction.

10月23日,极目新闻记者来到猪头石一探究竟。

On October 23th, the JIMU News reporters came to the pig-head shaped rock.

空中俯瞰猪头石Aerial view over the Zhutoushi (the pig-head shaped rock)

大别山区“奇石馆”

Strange Rock Museum in the Dabie Mountains

 

驱车从罗田县城出发,往南开行约30分钟,就进入猪头石所在的高峰山。沿狭窄而崎岖的山间小路缓慢开行,路两边的绿色画廊让人流连。穿过层层叠叠的密林蜿蜒而上,约10分钟,便到达高峰山顶。

About a half-hour drive southward from Luotian, you will find GaoFeng Mountain, where the pig-head shaped rock sits. Along the winding and bumpy mountain trails are green trees on both sides. A ten-minute drive through the forest will lead you to the peak.

首先映入眼帘的是一块横空出世的巨石,活灵活现地立于悬崖之上,颇似远古时期祭天仪式上猪头的形状。这块石头确实太大了,估计至少有30吨。

The first object to catch your sight is a huge boulder standing on the cliff, which resembles the shape of a pig's head that was normally prepared in ancient heaven worshipping ceremonies. The rock weighs at least 30 tons.

除了猪头石,山坡与树林间还有成千上万块奇形怪状的石头,有的圆溜溜,有的边角上翘,有的从中间裂开,有的像一条小船,有的像一块元宝,有的像南瓜,有的如龙潜山脊,有的似凌空飞鹰……

Apart from the pig-head shaped rock, there are thousands of rocks on the hillsides and in the woods. Some of them are round, upturned and broken, while others look like boats, gold ingots, pumpkins, ridges, and flying eagles.

站在峰顶四望,群山如岛屿般环绕耸峙,山连着山,山外还是山,山间青松如盖,山下泉水淙淙,百鸟在树林间跳跃歌唱。

Looking from the top of the mountain, you will find yourself surrounded by countless mountains. In the mountains, there are pine trees, mountain springs, and chirping birds. 

清晨,伫立猪头石上,透过层层轻纱般的薄雾往东方眺望,一轮火红的太阳在万山丛中冉冉升起,万道霞光瞬间普照大地,映出秀美的群山轮廓;夜晚伫立猪头石上,仰头可见银河两岸数不清的星斗,低头可听周围秋虫浅吟低唱,感受微风吹过松林传来的阵阵松涛声,仿佛置身另一个世界。

In the early morning, standing at the pig-head shaped rock and looking eastward through the veils of mist, you will notice the Sun rising behind the mountains and streaks of light shining over the earth, reflecting the outline of the beautiful mountains. It feels like one is in a different world standing on the rock in the evening, looking at the stars above and listening to the sounds of the insects and the wind.

此地属亚热带地区,气候温暖湿润,每当四五月份连绵的春雨一下,树下、草丛、山坡,一堆堆的橘红色的枞树菇,捡都捡不完,用枞树菇煮当地的腊肉,绝配,是当地人餐桌上必点的美食。

That place is a subtropical area with a warm and humid climate. Thanks to the rainy days in April and May, loads of orange-red fir tree mushrooms grow under the trees, in the grass and on the hillsides, which makes it nearly impossible to pick them all up. Local boiled cured meat with fir tree mushrooms is a must-order dish for local people.

“可惜今年遭遇大旱,山上虽有良好的小气候,花草树木都不会枯死,但枞树菇大大减少了”,白莲河乡土库村党支部书记贺正旺说。

“Despite the drought this year, trees and flowers did not wither thanks to the sound microclimate in the mountains, but the number of fir tree mushrooms has plunged,” He Zhengwang, the party secretary of Tuku Village, Bailian River Town said.

这块石头像不像元宝 The rock resembles a gold ingot

张体学曾在此指挥过关键一役

Zhang Tixue Leading a Critical Battle

 

猪头石周边山上留有太平天国时期的石龙寨、将军寨两座古寨,残垣断壁间,依稀可见当年的刀光剑影,可闻当年的鼓角铮鸣。

Two ancient villages Shilongzhai and Jiangjunzhai in the period of Taiping Heavenly Kingdom were located on the mountains near the pig-head shaped rock. Some remains of the wall reveal the fierce combat that took place there.

“这一带是鄂豫皖地区南来北往的交通要塞,地势险要,易守难攻。占据此地,可谓进可攻退可守”,黄冈市文化学者、黄冈市摄影家协会主席方华国说,高峰山位于浠水、罗田、英山、蕲春等县交界处,是浠水最北的一座高山,占据此地往南进攻,地势越来越低,几十公里内已无险可守,可一鼓作气攻到长江边;占据此地固守则易守难攻,足抵千军万马;从此地北退,可迅速消失于千里大别山的深山密林中。

“Occupying this area is really advantageous, because it is a traffic fort in Hubei, Henan and Anhui provinces, easy to defend but difficult to attack”, said Fang Huaguo, a scholar and chairman of Huanggang Photographers Association in Huanggang City, Hubei Province. Located on the border of Xishui, Luotian, Yingshan, Qichun and other counties, Gaofeng Mountain is the northernmost mountain in Xishui, Huanggang City. After occupying this area to attack southward, there is no need to stand on the defensive within dozens of kilometers because of the lower terrain surrounding the area, and one can attack all the way to the Yangtze River in one go. Occupying this place, makes it easier to defend than to attack; retreating from here to the north, one can quickly disappear into the deep mountains and forests of the Dabie Mountains.

正是这个原因,鄂豫边区五分区司令员张体学率部队在此打游击多年,并曾指挥关键一役,留下许多感人故事。

It is for this reason that Zhang Tixue, the commanding officer of the fifth sub-region of the Hubei-Henan Border Region, led his troops to initiate guerrilla warfare here for many years and captained a key battle, leaving many touching stories.

方华国介绍,1946年6月,为掩护新四军第五师主力部队突围,张体学率6000余人的鄂东独立二旅与国民党军整编第七十二师等数万人的队伍在大别山地区周旋多日,胜利完成了掩护任务。张体学带领剩下的战士突出重围,来到猪头石一带坚持打游击,巧妙地利用这一带的地利,部队得到休整补充后投入新的战斗。

Fang Huaguo introduced that in order to help the main force of the Fifth Division of the New Fourth Army to break out of the encirclement, he led a team of more than 6,000 soldiers from the Second Independent Brigade of Eastern Hubei Military Region. He along with tens of thousands of troops from the 72nd Division of the KMT Army wandered around the Dabie Mountains for many days before successfully completing the task of shielding the troops in June 1946. Later, Zhang led the rest of the soldiers to break out of the tight encirclement, and came to The pig-head shaped rock to initiate guerrilla warfare by utilizing the local geographical advantages. After that, his troops plunged into the new battles after recuperation and replenishment.

1947年9月,张体学改任鄂豫边区四分区司令员,主要任务是在大别山区发动群众,建立江南据点,配合刘邓大军南下。

In September of 1947, Zhang was appointed the commanding officer of the fourth sub-region of the Hubei-Henan Border Region, whose main task was to mobilize the masses in the Dabie Mountains, establish the fortified point in the south of the Yangtze River, and cooperate with Liu Deng's army in moving south.

当年10月,张体学率部从安徽霍山经英山、罗田往浠水三角山地区集结,准备参加刘邓大军在蕲春县组织的高山铺战役。部队在通往猪头石一带时,被国民党军咬住,敌军组织一个师的兵力,加上周围数县保安团,企图一口吃掉这颗搅得他们日夜不宁的眼中钉。

In October of that year, Zhang led his troops to move from Huoshan in Anhui province via Yingshan and Luotian, and gather in Xishui's Sanjiaoshan area to join the Gaoshanpu Campaign initiated by Liu Deng's army in Qichun County. His troops were #bitten# (Proofreader's note: Please confirm if the correct verb is indeed "bitten" as in"bitten by teeth") by the KMT army when they were going to the pig-head shaped rock Area. The enemy organized a division of troops and the security corps of several counties around them to try to wipe out Zhang's troops which made them restless day and night.

当晚,张体学率部来到古庙河与张家山交界的磨牛石一带准备休整一下,前面突然冒出一股敌人拦在山头,一挺机关枪挡住张体学部队必经之路。张体学命令一个侦察班绕到敌人背后,一排手榴弹下去,将国民党这股敌人全部消灭,带着部队快速到达猪头石,边休息边派人下山探路,发现敌人在山下已布成口袋,张体学惊出一身冷汗。原来这期间,国民党已组织浠水、罗田等数县保安团在通向浠水的香木河陈家竹林两边山上埋伏,罗田守敌国民党第七师516团赶往骆驼坳,在燕儿谷设下口袋,后面几千大军死死咬住。

That night, Zhang led his team to prepare for a rest at the Moniushi Area on the border of the Gumiaohe and Zhangjiashan. Suddenly, a swarm of enemies emerged in front of them with a machine gun, blocking the way that Zhang's troops had to go, so Zhang ordered a scout squad to get around the rear of the enemy. With a row of hand grenades exploded, all the enemies in this group were killed. He then took the troops to The pig-head shaped rock quickly, and sent his soldiers down the mountain to explore the way while resting. When he was told that they were besieged at the foot of the mountain, Zhang was breaking out in a cold sweat. It turned out that during this period, the KMT had organized the security corps of Xishui, Luotian and other counties to ambush them on the mountains on both sides of the Chen's bamboo forest on the Xiangmuhe, leading to Xishui. In addition, the 516 Regiment of the KMT's Seventh Division, Luotian garrison, rushed to Camel Col and set up encirclement in Yan'ergu, with thousands of troops behind them.

当地老乡为张体学指明一条小道,可从猪头石外暗家沟秘密穿越。顾不上休整,张体学留下一个排阻击敌人,带着主力部队快速穿过暗家沟,又从两边守敌中间的张八塘穿浠水胡河,辗转跳出敌人的重重包围,有惊无险地顺利到达三角山,随后,在刘伯承、邓小平的指挥下,会同大别山主力部队参加蕲春县高山铺战役,歼灭国民党整编四十师八十二旅1.7万多人,沉重打击了国民党军队的“追歼”计划。

Fortunately, the local villagers showed Zhang a alternative path, which passes through the Anjiagou outside the pig-head shaped rock. Without taking a break, Zhang left a platoon to block the enemies, quickly crossed the Anjiagou with his main force, and then crossed the Huhe in Xishui from Zhang Batang, a place besieged by both sides. They jumped out of the enemy's tight encirclement, and reached the Sanjiaoshan safely. Later, under the command of Liu Bocheng and Deng Xiaoping, he joined the main forces of the Dabie Mountains in the Gaoshanpu Battle in Qichun County, killing more than 17,000 people in the 82nd Brigade of the 40th Division of KMT. As a result, the KMT army's scheme failed.

白莲河乡土库村党支部书记贺正旺说,张体学留在猪头石山下担任阻击任务的一个排,为了拖住敌人拼尽全力,子弹全部打光,人员大都当场牺牲,两名身受重伤的战士突出重围后未能跑远先后牺牲。一个叫贺少祥的当地农民冒着杀头的危险埋葬了所有牺牲在当地的战士。身负重伤的两名战士一个在张家山古楼塆牺牲,2014年白莲河乡民政办为这位无名烈士立了碑;一个在土库村竹家山牺牲,2013年当地政府将这位烈士的遗骨迁往罗田县胜利烈士陵园安葬。

According to He Zhengwang, the general Party branch secretary of Tuku Village, Bailianhe Town, the whole platoon left by Zhang Tixue to counter the enemy made every effort to hold out against the all of the enemy's bullets. Almost all the soldiers lost their lives on the spot and a local farmer named He Shaoxiang risked his life to bury all the soldiers who died there. Two seriously injured soldiers broke through the encirclement but they failed to run far and passed away successively. In 2014, Civil Affairs Office of Bailianhe Town set up a monument for the one who died in Gulou Bay, Zhangjiashan. The other who sacrificed his life in Zhujiashan, Tuku Village, was moved to Luotian Martyr Cemetery for burial by the local government in 2013.

据现年88岁的叶青元老人介绍,1947年的那个秋天,他13岁,见证了这次惊心动魄的大突围。张体学的部队纪律严明,他家当时种了一亩多甘蔗,正成熟待割,部队在此一天一夜,甘蔗没少一根。张体学突围后,荷枪实弹的国民党追兵从猪头石经过,先后走了3天,估计有数万人。

The 88-year-old Ye Qingyuan said he witnessed the breathtaking breakthrough in the autumn of 1947 when he was 13. The troop led by Zhang Tixue was fairly strict in discipline. Ye's home had one mu of land with ripened sugarcanes at that time. No soldier dared to steal one sugarcane although the whole troop stayed here one day and one night. After breaking through the encirclement, Zhang's troop was chased by thousands of soldiers with loaded guns of the KMT in three days, passing by the The pig-head shaped rock.

今年6月13日,张体学的儿子、原湖北省民政厅厅长张牢生到猪头石追寻先辈革命足迹,传承红色基因,聊起当年的话题,感叹唏嘘,亲笔题写“红色猪头石”5个大字。

On 13 Jun this year, Zhang Laosheng, the son of Zhang Tixue and the former Director of Civil Affairs Department in Hubei Province, followed the revolutionary footprints of our ancestors. When it came to what happened before, he signed and inscribed "The Red pig-head shaped rock".

奇形怪状的石头比比皆是Rocks in all shapes can commonly be found in this mountain

大别山的会客厅已成网红打卡地

Red The pig-head shaped rock: Welcome to Dabie Mountains

 

不知从何时起,猪头石悄然变成鄂东地区著名的网红打卡地,每到周末,就有数不清的网红从全国各地赶来打卡,一睹巧夺天工的巨石风采。

At some point, The pig-head shaped rock has become a famous tourist attraction in the eastern part of Hubei Province. Countless online celebrities come here every weekend, appreciating this huge natural rock.

“从黄冈市大的旅游格局看,猪头石位于浠水、罗田交界处,离英山、蕲春两县的距离也非常近,薄刀峰、天堂寨、斗方山、三角山、吴家山、黄州东坡……黄冈市大多数3A、4A景区,都在其50公里覆盖范围。”黄冈市文旅局副局长刘海介绍,独特的地理位置,让猪头石既可作为大别山的会客厅,也可成为开启大别山旅游的门户。

“From the perspective of tourism of Huanggang City, the pig-head shaped rock is located at the crossing of Xishui and Luotian, being fairly close to Yingshan and Qichun as well. The 3A and 4A tourist spots of Huanggang City, including Bodao Peak, Tiantangzhai, Doufangshan, Sanjiaoshan, Wujiashan and Dongpo, are within 50 kilometers” said Liu Hai, Deputy Directer of Huanggang Bureau of Culture and Tourism. Liu concluded that as a local landmark, the pig-head shaped rock with its special location, can be the first stop for tourists to begin their trips into the Dabie Mountains.

除了位置独特,猪头石与周边景区显著不同的特色就是这里有数不清的造型千奇百怪的球形风化石。这座山上花岗岩多且大都裸露,因常年云雾笼罩,雨水充沛,山石经亿万斯年之日月映照,风雨吹洗,雷电冲击,使此地每块奇石上都留下了大自然的密码,鬼斧神工,天下独绝。

Apart from the unique location, the most distinct difference between The pig-head shaped rock and tourist attractions surrounding is countless spherical weathered rocks in all kinds of weird shapes. There are many large and bare granites on this mountain. Having experienced the long time and different weather conditions, in addition to clouds and fogs covering the whole year and plenty of rain, every rock illustrates the charm of nature.

方华国说,这些石头是大别山地质公园的盆景,每块石头都是一个故事,可观赏性、游览性非常好。同时,这些石阵稍加修饰就可做成碑林和摩崖石刻,在此基础上打造书画临摹基地,将此处风景赋予文化内涵,开发潜力巨大,市场前景可观。

According to Fang Huaguo, those rocks are like miniatures of the Dabie Mountains Geopark with each rock having its own special story. In addition, these rock formations have the potential to be transformed into steles and inscriptions on precipices. Furthermore, a cultural park featured with traditional Chinese calligraphy and painting is under planning. The market potential of the rich natural resources is huge, if combined with traditional culture.

(通讯员供图 Images provided by correspondents)

责任编辑:胥甜